Posted Thu, 08/18/2011 - 23:22 by Mic Expert Frit...
Questions come in as to how to effectively and permanently fill voids (holes) in the bodies of harpmics -whether caused by damage, absent and unneeded set-screws, or gaps around modifications in the zinc-alloy shells. You would want to use a material that's easy to apply, will stick to the shell's alloy, and can be tooled much like the metal it's applied to. Maybe you've found solder won't adhere to the alloy and Bondo-like fillers aren't hard enough... continue reading...
Posted Thu, 08/11/2011 - 11:30 by Mic Expert Frit...
Recent posts and one-on-one discussions have included references to the various obstructions found on the surfaces of harpmics that can cause practical problems with their workability (where hand-held harp's concerned). From the minimal (SHURE 520 family) to the extreme (ASTATIC 200 family), these castings never considered the hand-held options utilized by jockeys of the Tin Sandwich. Some mic techs have even made a specialty of modifying the bodies of virtually unusable mics, rendering them harp-specific monsters. continue reading...
Posted Thu, 08/04/2011 - 23:42 by Mic Expert Frit...
For the past couple weeks I've been monkeying (NOT a Planet of the Apes reference) with element/capsule placement within microphone bodies. Some of this as the result of client's requests, some out of abject obsessive curiosity. Likely you know of or have seen the HUGE (usually green) bullet mics marketed in the '60's by a variety of Japanese companies (Argonne, Olson, etc.) that looked somewhat like mutated Astatics and wound-up in the hands of people such as "Big Walter" Horton. They were mostly crystals, and often had their elements planted toward the bottom of the mic's shell. continue reading...
I bought a JT30 from a friend and I was wondering how difficult it would be to put in a volume control. Is there anything online like a "do it yourself"?
It's a controled magnetic. He said the element is from the 60's but the shell is older. Does this take away from tone at all? Do you suggest and specific parts for this?
Thanks in advance for an information. Even if its to tell me to go to hell.
What's the difference between the Hohner Blues Blaster and the Hohner JT30 Roadhouse? I look at descriptions of the Roadhouse and it says they come with brand new crystal elements and already has a volume knob and screw on adapter. What's your opinion on these?
Posted Wed, 07/13/2011 - 20:11 by Mic Expert Frit...
You don't have to be a Boy Scout to "be prepared"... In response to a number of questions regarding the tools, parts, and materials that are either indispensable or simply useful in the maintenance of (and major surgery on) Lord Microphone: I'd like to recommend a refresher viewing of the video segments I've done for Bluesharmonica.com. Tools, soldering recommendations, practical procedures and short-cuts are offered. Super-specifics? Just buzz me...
I just got a new (to me) brown biscuit in the mail today with a crystal element. I'm pretty new to mics but to me, it definitely sounds better than my Shure 520DX but how do I know if the crystal is "good" or "bad"? Is it recommended to switch it out for a CM/CR or should I just wait until it craps out?
Also, I know I want to put a screw on connector on it. Where can I go to get this done or is this something I can or you recommend doing myself?
Posted Wed, 06/29/2011 - 14:49 by Mic Expert Frit...
The SWITCHCRAFT 332A adaptor is a common sight on many a harpmic equipped with a thread-on output connector and a common component in many a tin sandwich jockey's bag of tools and tricks. There's another great reason for keeping them handy: If you love to monkey with the old "LUNCHBOX" and "TOASTER" P.A. continue reading...