Ask Harp Mic Expert Greg Heumann

So you've successfully re-affixed your A) mic's grill cloth; B) corner of your amp's Tolex covering; C) kitchen counter top using an aerosol contact cement as described in PART2. GOOD! But wait... even though you were careful to direct the short blast of spray toward the inside of the grill only, it seems the unintended over-spray has deposited a dusting of schmutz on the inner bezel of the grill where it fits over the flange of the shell's body and on the exterior of the grill's frontal surface as well. continue reading...

As a follow-up to Part1 and Part1A wherein we got a handle on cleaning, preserving, and re-using vintage grillcloth inserts with the SHURE 707 as an example: Since I referred to "spray-on contact cement" let's elaborate on a couple details... The glues I'm referring to as "contact cement" will go by that moniker or "spray adhesive", sometimes "mounting adhesive" when marketed in the graphic arts and photo production fields. I've found the prices increase as the product's purpose becomes more selective/specialized. Thus, the best prices are among the generic "contact spray adhesives". continue reading...

Fritz, I thought you would find this interesting. I played a showcase at the Superior Bar in Memphis last week and was approached by a guy when leaving the stage who pointed to my mic and said, "That is one of DJ's mics isn't it." Guys like you and Dennis produce mics that have so much personality they can be recognized in a crowded room from 30 feet - what a gift you wizzards have!

Following-up on the cleaning of the factory black or blue fabric grillcloth found in the SHURE 707's (among others): The cloth can be re-mounted to the newly cleaned interior surface of the grill with a light shot of spray contact cement applied to the inside of the grill, not the cloth. Do it right and there will be very little overspray to contend with -much tidier than hand-applying superglue or household cement. MIC MORSEL: As the years and usage have likely drained some of the color out of the exposed side of the grillcloth fabric, FLIP IT OVER before you re-install! continue reading...

I have acquired a "dead" Model 30 that I would like to resuscitate with a CM element. As you know, the mic is "hard-wired." The hole that the cable passes through is just a tiny bit too large to tap for a screw-on connector. I think I can "press fit" and set-screw the connector without having to drill the hole out.(?)

But, if one were to be dedicated to screwing in the screw-on, is there a method of "filling and drilling" that works best in this situation - that is within reach of the DIYer?

Thanks for sharing. Really appreciate you being here!

A swarm of lovely SHURE 707's has recently landed in the MIC DUNGEON, all having one nasty symptom in common: Their blue (or older black) fabric grillcloths were all caked with -stuff. The owners all requested retaining these original components, so how to A) make them hygienic B) make them look GOOD! continue reading...

Where does the time go? I spent HOURS down in the MIC DUNGEON today and tonight, connecting all manner of Mic elements to all manner of raw audio transformers -not the ready-cooked in-line variety of 'matching transformer' but the little raw guys you find inside (primarily dynamic) microphones. The ones with mysterious multi-colored wires dangling out of their windings. Alligator test leads in hand and amp at the ready, I tested literally dozens and dozens of combinations. Yes, some very COOOOOL results and surprises a-plenty! continue reading...

I have a Shure CR element that does not work. It ohms out fine at 1185 ohms but I can only get
it to work if I push slightly on the pin (pickup) on the front of the element. When I release audio goes dead. IF I push to much audio also goes dead so it appears something is out of adjustment.

Is there a way to adjust this or is the element trashed? Also I have another element with the 3 screws broken off. The 2 screws that go into the standoffs. What size are these screws? Do you know where I can get them.

Regards,

528hemi

Many older mics -such as earlier versions of ASTATIC's JT-30- incorporate a 5/8" thread-on output connector that's pressed into a 3/8" hole (in the case of the JT-30 at the rear of the stand lug) and is held in place by friction only. This "press-fit" is provided by the grooves (or 'splines') that encircle the 3/8" portion of the connector -not by threading as with the similar SWITCHCRAFT 2501MP. These thread-on's (typically AMPHENOL MC-1 connectors) were designed for one-time application. Once they're installed, they stay in place until damage necessitates that they be replaced. continue reading...

Hi, Fritz.

I have an old JT-30 with a screw-on connector that doesn't want to stay in place. (It is not threaded in, just held in place by the collar thingy). What is the best (or easiest, if that's too complicated) way to reattach it so that it stays put?
I was thinking that a set screw might make the most sense. If so, what size do you recommend, and from what source?

Thanks.