Ask Harp Tech Expert Kinya Pollard

Hi Kinya,

I'm from Brazil, so i'll start apologizing for some writing errors that might happen.

I'm having some problems setting the 2 hole draw gap, either open or closed, i hear a lot of air when i draw, the only thing that changes is the strength needed to make the reed work.

It's recommended to apply the embossing, or any technique on the draw reeds to had a better response?

Thanks, and again sorry for my poor english

Hey there Harp-Techs,
For those of you who have just completed the sizing (embossing) process on your reed plates with plastic SP20 type combs, be mindful not to over tighten the reed plate screws! This will cause the reed slots to bow microscopically inwards and touch your reeds as it passes through the slot--resulting in that annoying clickety-clack sound when you play (if it plays at all).

"Play the notes people want to hear" © 2008

Kinya Pollard
The Harpsmith

Musician & Harp-Tech
Harmonica Masterclass Workshop Instructor
MelBay's Harmonica Sessions Columnist continue reading...

Hi Kinya,

I have two C harps (Sp20). One is very easy to tongue block blow bend the 10 blow. The other is very difficult. What reed characteristics make one easy and the other difficult? What do I need to change on the difficult reed?

Thanks, Pete

Hi, Kinya!
My Special 20 in A gives me some trouble. I noticed that while playing the learning songs from the site with the provided jam tracks the harmonica sounds way out of tuning at some parts of the track. My little investigation showed that blows 1 through 4 are the problematic holes. For example 4 blow is 449-440 Hz according to phone's tuner.
3 blow sounds awfully out of tune as well, no matter how strong or soft it's blown. continue reading...

Hi Kinya, continue reading...

Wow! What a great teacher you are!

Very nice intro with Studies 1. I can't wait to see the rest.

So I have to ask...

Are you any good at chess? I need a better teacher.

Hi Kinya - just read your article on the Tuning Table and commented:

Hey Kinya - great article!! I ordered and received my tuning table and it is a joy to use for sure. A question that keeps coming up in my head is the gapping thing. Is there some sort of "rule of thumb" for gapping sizes or is it a matter of blow/draw and adjust to your style of playing? I see everyone talk about having a set of 'spark plug gappers' (.002 - .02) - is this to adjust the gap size with??

Thanks for any info on this. continue reading...

today I had the chance to a-b the hohner marineband crossover and the suzuki manji.

They were both in the key of a.
What I found was that the crossover was much more lighter to bend then the suzuki manji.
I also found that the manji was a bit leaky when I bent it.

I gapped them both pretty much the same way.

Is there really a difference between them, or is it just me? (considering my technique)

I understand that I should calibrate to A442 instead of A440 but any idea how that is done on the Conn Strobo Tuner? I just got one and read the manual and it only mentioned A440 the CAL function seems to be mainly to calibrate the CENTS knob for zero before you begin. My Korg CA-30 has a simple up/down adjustment, am I missing something I'm kind fo new to tuning my harps.

Thanks!

When setting the profile of your reed (gaping), use your thumb nail as a "break" (sheet metal term). Position your thumb nail across the first 20% of the reed length (rivet end), gently lift the free end of the reed with your plinking tool. Take it slow at first, you'll be surprised at how well this works--you do not want to turn your reeds into miniature ski jump ramps!
~Kinya