Ask Harp Tech Expert Kinya Pollard

today I had the chance to a-b the hohner marineband crossover and the suzuki manji.

They were both in the key of a.
What I found was that the crossover was much more lighter to bend then the suzuki manji.
I also found that the manji was a bit leaky when I bent it.

I gapped them both pretty much the same way.

Is there really a difference between them, or is it just me? (considering my technique)

I understand that I should calibrate to A442 instead of A440 but any idea how that is done on the Conn Strobo Tuner? I just got one and read the manual and it only mentioned A440 the CAL function seems to be mainly to calibrate the CENTS knob for zero before you begin. My Korg CA-30 has a simple up/down adjustment, am I missing something I'm kind fo new to tuning my harps.

Thanks!

When setting the profile of your reed (gaping), use your thumb nail as a "break" (sheet metal term). Position your thumb nail across the first 20% of the reed length (rivet end), gently lift the free end of the reed with your plinking tool. Take it slow at first, you'll be surprised at how well this works--you do not want to turn your reeds into miniature ski jump ramps!
~Kinya

I rinsed my crossover under the tab to get the gunk out, and now the comb seems swollen. Steve Baker had told me he rinsed his crossovers also underneath the tab and that the bamboo comb wouldn't swell. What did I do wrong? Or was Steve just putting me on?
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Kinya,

I just watched the Interview with Tuning Table Inventor Rick Trankle. He mentioned online tuners so I went to the Seventh String Tuner web site ('cause it's free).

The online tuner gives me the correct note, however when I play a sustained note that should be at zero cents (440.0), the cents meter swings back and forth between 2 and 7 cents with "Hum cancellation" unchecked and between 5 and 8 with "Hum cancellation" checked. Also it registers about 20 cents too high. continue reading...

Hi Kinya,

I'm intrigued by the tuning table product, but I tune my reeds using sanding wands from micro mark. The tuning table website references Richard Sleigh's website to buy a scraper, but the kit is $55. Can you recommend a cheaper alternative?

Also, any advise to someone who has always used sanding wands and wants to give scrapers a try?

Thanks, Pete

For MACRO tuning (5+ cents): remove material from the extreme ends of the reed. For example; [#] When the reed is sharp (right of tuner's zero), work near the rivet end to slow down the oscillating reed. [b] When the reed is flat (left of tuner's zero), work on the free end of the reed to speed up the oscillating reed. For MICRO tuning (1~2 cent increments): remove material towards the center of the reed, rather than the extreme ends of the reed. Thank you Dick Sjoberg for this wonderful technique!

My web site is up and running. For anyone who's interested in custom Seydel Harmonicas or getting a Seydel Harmonica of their own customized please contact me through my web site: www.customseydels.com

Thanks,
Jon

When tuning your harmonica, start with the root note first. This will make tuning the chords by ear more effective.
For example, on a C Richter tuned harmonica, start with 2 (G) draw and 3 (G) blow.
~Kinya

In Japanese, "Seire" means Orderliness. Translation: "A place for everything and everything in it's place". Endeavor to organize your workbench, where even with your eyes closed, you will be able to find the proper tool and supplies.