Sizing Manji Slots
Hey Kinya,
Typically when I size/emboss reed slots I use my reed wrench and carefully move the reed away from the slot side I'm going to work on, not an option with a spot welded reed!
Got any tips or tricks on embossing/sizing the slot with the reed in place?
I'd hate to banjax that brand new Low D Manji.
Thanks,
TomE
Thanks John,
I found that the Manji Low D didn't require too much sizing/embossing. Some of the reeds were slightly off center in their slots so I had to emboss one side of the slot more. I was surprised by the large gaps at the free ends of the reeds on the draw plate. In general, really a well built stock harp! But everything can be improved with a little TLC.
When I size reed slots I work on a stereoscope so I can see what I'm doing. It can be lit from underneath, from the top, or both at once. So it's like a magnifying light table. I use a Zajac embossing tool and some food grade glycerin for lubricant.
I have another Manji Low C yet to size/emboss so still happy for any tips! Sometimes I would slip a shim under the free end of the reed and clamp it with my finger while working on the rivet end of the slot. Kind of using the side of the reed as a fence. When I got to the free end I would gently depress the reed into the slot so as not to scratch, scrape or (shudder) snag it with the tool. Seemed to work but somebody has a tried and true better method I'm sure.
Hey Grasshopper cant offer tips but Im sure the master will respond. My level of customisation is more a question of correction.
Good luck and I would be interested to see how you go.
Hi Tom, these days I rarely pivot the reed, so harmonica reeds that are pop riveted or assemble with traditional rivets are handled the same on my bench. Here are a list of forum posts and a harp tech study link, that I think you will find helpful:
https://www.bluesharmonica.com/reed_slot_sizing
https://www.bluesharmonica.com/harp_tech_study_6_reed_sizing
https://www.bluesharmonica.com/size_matters_aka_embossing
Don’t forget to set the zero points, especially on monster reeds, Low Tuned harmonicas.
https://www.bluesharmonica.com/zero_point_tip_of_the_year
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
p.s. can you show me and our readers photos of your stereoscope
Kinya I use a Lenspen Sensorklear Loupe. Its used by photographers to look at the camera sensors to clean dust off. Easy to handle and cheap.
I'm wondering what the magnification strength is on the Loupe?
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Does 6x sound correct to you?
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Kinya Im not sure sounds about right Will investigate and get back. In practical terms however it gives ample magnification for decisions.
Hiya Kinya,
I thank you for the sizing links you provided! That's basically what I did when I sized/embossed the Low D Manji.
I haven't tried your gapping with the "micro mark" pliers technique yet, for one I haven't bought the tool and I'm kinda skerred. Especially since I'll have to re-tune any harmonica I try that technique on. I'm not sure that I really understand how you can set the reed into the slot and yet have a .002 zero point. Is the zero point moved towards the free end from the rivet end? I did review your tutorials but I'm still confused. Nothing an in person tutorial couldn't quickly demonstrate, it's difficult to grasp from afar through the inner tube!
Even after sizing the Low D Manji to mighty tight slot size I'm finding the 1 & 2 hole draw bends are almost impossible.
Recommendations?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge,
TomE
ps I'll try to upload some pics of the stereoscope
Unfortunately I am not able to figure out how to insert pictures into the forum.
I'd be happy to email them to you but I'm not much of a keyboard warrior.
It's a "Swift M27LED Tri-Power" and allows for 10x, 20x, & 30x magnification. A fine instrument indeed. If you search the innerwebs for the manual you can see an image.
I have actually taken pictures through one of the eyepieces with my smartphone and gotten a nice image. Nifty! Nice for my old guy eyes to do super small work but a bit cramped working under the viewing/magnifying aparatus.
Hello Kinya. When I blow the 5 reed it starts off smooth but as i increrase wind flow it doesn't reach the same high volune as the other reeds. I noticed there is a slightly larger gap between the sides of the reed and the reed plate compared to the other reeds. I assume that is my problem and should more aggressively emboss the sides. Is my logic correct? Mic
Yes James, your assessment is correct.
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Holy Smokes Tom, the Swift M27LED Tri-Power is certainly a fine looking instrument. I'm curious, what field of work did you do?
Bending the Low D #1 and #2 reeds are definitely challenging. For me, I can only achieve the bends with a lip blocking embouchure.
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Ha! I'm a carpenter!
Fortunately the wife is a biologist so....
When I was trying to find an image for you I perused their catalogue. Most of their newer intruments have a digital camera involved. That would certainly be nice!
ah so!
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
One other thing Jim, if when you look down on to the reed plate, and the space between the end of the free end reed #5 and the reed plate slot is excessive, then narrow the gap by sizing the leading edge of the reed plate slot as well as the sides.
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Not sure how much embossing you may have done on the Manji. My experience is that the tolerances are so tight and it's very easy to overdo the embossing. I use a 10 ml socket and very lightly do half embossing testing as I go. The Manji have very accurate reed setting on the plate so I have found very little correction required. The low key harps I do not touch as they are just so good out the box. I will be interested to see what the master has to say.