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Reed gapping clearance to the zero point

3 replies [Last post]
Fri, 06/19/2020 - 14:17
R3Dz
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Hiya Kinya.

I have a harp where the reeds are shaped like a this --->  ( with the middle going into the slot.

so in other words I can't slide a shim all the way to the zero point.

Now is that bad ? I'm looking at shaping/improving this harp and I haven't touched the reeds at all yet. It actually plays pretty damn good as is. It's a marineband classic .

Would it benefit if I'd shape it so I have clearance all the way to the zero point ?

 

Thanks,

 

Chris

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Mon, 06/22/2020 - 09:41
#1
Harp Tech Kinya...
Harp Tech Kinya Pollard's picture
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Hey Chris,If the instrument

Hey Chris,

  1. If the instrument plays well-even very well, then avoid the temptation to mess with it. Remember the 'ol adage, "If it ain't broken-don't fix it"
  2. If your "damn the torpedoes" mind set won't let it be, then proceed to #3
  3. Imagine a horizontal wood plank, with each end sitting ontop of one of those orange Home Depot buckets. If you applied pressure directly on top of the mid section of the plank, it would bow downward. Let's carry that image to your harmonica,
  4. In your case, the bow (hump) of your reed already droops downward into the slot. Assuming you already removed your reed plate from the comb, you will flip the reed plate over and spot the bowed reed. Next, secure the free end of the reed with your pinchers (thumb/index finger) and hold it closer to your eyes for better clarity
  5. With the tip of a wooden toothpick (or wooden cuticle tool) position it directly onto the hump of the reed. Now, with downward pressure, gently stroke the area (lengthwise) until you see the hump of the reed begin to flatten
  6. Warning; if you overdid it, meaning the reed now humps outward making the tip of the vibrating reed dive first into the slot, you will have to repeat the above steps onto the opposite side
  7. With the reed straight, you can proceed with setting the zero point and reed gap.
  8. Remember, similar to a (straight) basement door, you want the entire length of the reed to shut out the light at the same time.

Your Harpsmith, Kinya

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Sat, 06/20/2020 - 20:04
#2
R3Dz
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haha great that's what I

haha great that's what I thought.

 

We're going straight to #3 cuz this is my project/learning harp (I'm 100% ready to throw it in the trash if I mess it up... well the parts I mess up that is. as a harpsmith I break a reed I just buy another reed ;P)

This is a marine band in the key of A and I already have a crossover, a manji and a seydel lightning (I freaking love the seydel btw) all in the key of A so you could say I don't exactly need it to actually work. In fact it spends 80% of it's time dismantled

 

My objective with this harp is to get overblows on 4-5-6 (6 is already there) and bring it to a point where I can play it very lightly. I'm a light player by nature added by the fact I play when kiddo is sleeping so I often play softly (on top of the fact soft is my normal). I was thinking of shapping and gapping the reeds (cuz one will impact the other of course) and I'm going for very tight.

 

 

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Mon, 06/22/2020 - 09:40
#3
Harp Tech Kinya...
Harp Tech Kinya Pollard's picture
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Copy that Chris. Keep us

Copy that Chris. Keep us posted and Happy Father' Day.

Your Harpsmith, Kinya

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