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Forums :: Ask Harp Tech Expert Kinya Pollard

Home made comb?

7 replies [Last post]
Thu, 06/11/2020 - 15:51
jmcglynn
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I have some weird issue with the comb on my MB1896 - I posted it elsewhere on the forum.  I expect that it's a bad bit of wood that was used on the comb, and I know I can order a high quality replacement from a number of places.  I want to experiment with tweaking and tuning anyway, so this is a good candidate to experiment on.

 

 

I've done some woodwork and it seems like not a crazy thing to make a new comb, although I haven't completely figured out the best way to cut the slots.  Has anyone else done this?

The slot widths measure 0.163" to 0.170" across a couple of MB1896 and crossover harps.  Since the slot are deep it seems like a dado blade or somethibng like that on a table saw would be a reasonable way to go.  Assuming I cut the slots in a long piece of wood you could then cut "slices" to produce combs.  I'm probably not describing my thinking very well (or, maybe, I'm describing it accurately and my throught process isn't very clear.  Could go either way some days)

I'll want to seal the wood in some way, maybe with some ultra thin super glue to protect it against moisture.

Anyway, I'd be interested to hear other thoughts on home made combs.  I know I can buy one, or 3D print one, or have one laser cut - but the idea of makind one out of a nice scrap of wood is interesting to me.

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Fri, 06/12/2020 - 17:13
#1
Harp Tech Kinya...
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Hello JMCGLYNN, thanks for

Hello JMCGLYNN, thanks for joining us! You've come to the right place.

The photo you had posted has been supersized on this forum, and therefore, we can not see the entire harmonica. I'm fairly certain it is the classic "fastened with nails" Hohner 1896 Marine Band. The deformed tines jetting out from the mouthpiece shows me that excessive moisture (saliva, condensation, etc.) remained on the comb, then penetrated the unsealed Pearwood comb and allowed to swell.

When I first started playing the harmonica (circa 1973), I too had the same issue on my Hohner Pearwood comb harmonicas. The sharp edges of the destorted tines would cut my lips and draw blood. In fact, I was told by the "old timers" that is was a right of passage to show blood after a particularly moving performance on the diatonic harmonica. Blood, sweat and tears.

Well, we are much wiser now. Today, harmonica manufactures and customizers use all types of composite materials that never require sealing; such as ABS, Acrylic, Corian, and Suzuki Manji combs. Bamboo, and exotic woods will all require fine sanding and proper sealing.

As you already mentioned, there are many sources for terrific ready-to-install harmonica combs found on cyberspace. Making your own combs will be slotted under the category of "Labor of Love". I would recommend selecting some sort of hard wood.

  1. Size your "block of wood" so that you will get approximately 10 diatonic harmonica combs out of it
  2. Use your old Marine Band comb to create a template that you can draw onto your block
  3. Of course you will have to decide how you will set up your jig and clamping method, but in principle
  4. You select the table saw blade the will cut the slots at .175" wide about 3/16" (4.53mm) 
  5. Next carefully push your block into the spinning blade until you reached your "length of slot" stopping points. I'm not clear what key harmonica you are working with, but for me I'm using an Eb comb for the following step dimensions:
  • Slot #01 = .800" (20.32mm)
  • Slot #02 = .777" (19.75mm)
  • Slot #03 = .745" (18.93mm)
  • Slot #04 = .713" (18.12mm)
  • Slot #05 = .678" (17.23mm)
  • Slot #06 = .646" (16.42mm)
  • Slot #07 = .613" (15.57mm)
  • Slot #08 = .585" (14.86mm)
  • Slot #09 = .558" (14.18mm)
  • Slot #10 = .532" (13.51mm)
  1. From a top view, it will appear you have one comb taking shape. 
  2. Allowing for the width of your circular saw blade, scribe lengthwise your 10 cut lines (to make 10 combs)
  3. Another technique is to switch over to your band saw (makes thinner cut lines)
  4. The sharper the blade, the less sanding you will have to do. Remember striations caused by the saw blade will allow precious air pressure to escape, and compromise the playability of your instrument. The final mating surfaces between the comb and the reed plates have to be absolutely FLAT with zero blemishes.

Check back with us when you get this far, then we will move onto to "rounding the tines" for a super comfortable mouthpiece and finishing the comb.

Your Harpsmith, Kinya

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Sat, 06/13/2020 - 14:36
#2
jmcglynn
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Thanks Kinya, that's mind of

Thanks Kinya, that's mind of what I was imagining.  My slot depths on the doner MB1896 are a bit deeper.

I made two "blocks" just now.  THe space between the combs and the spacing is just right, but I'm slightly off on where on the positioning of the first slot by maybe .040". I'm not going to worry about that as it's just cosmetic.

After I too this picture I sanded tge bottom of the slits to remove the uneveness and then flooded the insides of the grooves with thin superglue.  It gets completely absorbed into the wood and should help seal and stabilize it.  Once that drys my plan is to smooth the outside of the block, radius the edges of the teeth, and then cut a couple of slices off to use to repair my wonky harp.

I'll either seal it with more superglue or polyurethane before lapping it as flat as I can get it.

The wood is a scrap of Sapele left over from an Arts & Crafts furniture project.  It's a Mahogany-like wood.  Fine grained, stable, and a bit denser.

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Sat, 06/13/2020 - 16:35
#3
jmcglynn
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Since my pattern was offset

Since my pattern was offset to one side slightly I grafter a bit of scrap onto the other end.  When I fit it on the harmonica I can then trim both ends to the right length.  Assuming it all fits properly.  It's not perfect, but it's a learning process.

I sanded the outside of the block with 320 and eased the edges of the comb - not as much as the Crossover, but more than the stock comb.  I soaked in in polyurethane for a few minutes and will let it dry over night.  

My plan is to lap it flat tomorrow and then perform open harp surgery and change mine from naild to screws, fit the new comb and experiment with tuning and tweaking a bit.

If I do this again I'll have to get a blade that is the right width and will cut a flat bottom.  The blade I used has alternating bevels on the teeth, it's cuts amazingly cleaning but leaves a non-smooth bottom.  It's also too narrow, I had to make two passes for each slot using two thicknesses of veneer to offset for the second cut.  It worked, but it was too fiddly for me.  On the other hand this should give me more harmonica combs than I'll ever need and it cost exactly nothing.

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Sun, 06/14/2020 - 17:09
#4
Harp Tech Kinya...
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J, you are moving right

J, you are moving right along-very impressive! How many combs will you be able to produce from your blocks of Sapele hardwood?

Take a quick peak at https://www.bluesharmonica.com/modifying_mouthpiece_marine_band_1896_comb for an easy method of sanding a radius onto the leading tines for a comfortable mouthpiece.

Your Harpsmith, Kinya

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Tue, 06/16/2020 - 17:31
#5
R3Dz
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hey that's pretty cool !

hey that's pretty cool !

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Wed, 06/17/2020 - 12:44
#6
Harp Tech Kinya...
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It certainly is. There are

It certainly is. There are many skillful craftspeople among us!

Your Harpsmith, Kinya

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Thu, 07/09/2020 - 13:51
#7
Harp Tech Kinya...
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Hello JMCGLYNN, readers and

Hello JMCGLYNN, readers and myself are waiting with bated breath to see and hear about your finished comb project. How is it going?

Your Harpsmith, Kinya

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