Gapping
Hi Kinya - just read your article on the Tuning Table and commented:
Hey Kinya - great article!! I ordered and received my tuning table and it is a joy to use for sure. A question that keeps coming up in my head is the gapping thing. Is there some sort of "rule of thumb" for gapping sizes or is it a matter of blow/draw and adjust to your style of playing? I see everyone talk about having a set of 'spark plug gappers' (.002 - .02) - is this to adjust the gap size with??
Thanks for any info on this.
If this is coming up in in the videos you and David have done, just let me know and I'll wait. Thanks
Thanks Kinya - this is great!! I've never heard anyone talk about the gap at the rear part of the reed. I always thought it was supposed to be even with the top of the plate.When I tried to slide the .002 gauge from the free end to the 'base' it would only go 2/3 of the way. Should it be able to slide all the way to the base (stand)?
Man, on close examination some of my gaps are 'big'. Difference in gaps between low harps (G) and high (F)?
Happy New Year!!!
Hey Hank,
That is correct. There will be a little resistance, but the .002" gauge should slide all the way back.
Try this: position your your plinking tool (knife edge shape) under the reed and parallel with the reed plate, then slowly dart (slide) it back towards the rivet. Release and try the .002" gauge again. Repeat as necessary.
Let us know how this works for you.
~Kinya
Thanks Kinya - that made the difference!! Now to "mess around" with the other end!!
Happy New Year Hank,
Ah, gapping ... probably one of the most important techniques to master in harmonica maintenance and customizing. Done well, and you will stamp "My favorite harmonica" on the covers. Executed poorly, and that harmonica will be the one you throw into the audience at the closing of a hot gig--you rock Hank!
Gapping will be covered in great detail in an upcoming segment of Harp-Tech Studies, "Customizing Marine Band Fundamentals 101A". In the meantime, if you want to play around, imagine a typical swimming pool diving board mounted onto a stand (end of the diving board). The contractor is preparing the swimming pool, so temporarily set the board and stand aside on the back patio. Can you see it?
The height of the stand will represent the distance between the underbelly of the rear part of the reed (board) and the top of the reed plate (patio). Set this distance to .002” (.05 mm). The next step is to use your thumb nail, like a sheet metal brake tool, to hold the reed in place while the free end of the reed is elevated.
Position your thumb nail across the back of the reed (just ahead of the rivet). With your other hand, slide your plinking/reed tool underneath the free end of the reed. Gently lift the back of your tool upward and watch the slope of your reed rise—then stop. Now replace the reed plinking tool with your feeler gauges, and measure the distance of the bottom of the free tip part of the reed to the top of the reed plate. “Generally” speaking, set the gap in the .004” ~ .006” range. Heavy breathers will be .006”(+) and light players, .004”(-).
Endeavor to keep the reed as straight as a door (no bowing), so that that the entire length of the reed will swing in and out of the slot as evenly as possible.
HAPPY NEW YEAR! Kinya