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Forums :: Ask Harp Tech Expert Kinya Pollard

To the Edge...... And Beyond....

7 replies [Last post]
Fri, 03/23/2018 - 13:29
tophand
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I just got done watching your "Tuning past the edge," MasterHarp video again and it got me to pondering something I'd read recently. To compensate for an assmbled harp and normal breath force the writer opined that tuning +8 cents on the 1 draw would end up with the reed being in tune. I'm sorry I don't remember where I read that. What is your opinion of the +8 theory?

 

thanks......Mike

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Sat, 03/24/2018 - 17:42
#1
Harp Tech Kinya...
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Hi Mike, That makes sense for

Hi Mike, That makes sense for those who set their chromatic tuners to 440Hz, making A read +8. This is why most Harp Techs simply calibrate their chromatic tuner to 442Hz--making A appear as 0

Your Harpsmith, Kinya

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Wed, 03/28/2018 - 18:19
#2
tophand
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My oh My

I tuned my first reed plate with the MasterHarp today. My goodness. I sure am glad I tuned things the hard way for a while because I now really appreciate what a fine piece of craftsmanship the MasterHarp is and what it allows me to do. 

I'm using the 7.5 side of the gasket. Do you move the pins between blow and draw? I left them in blow hole and it seemed to work. I was just wondering.

 

 

Thanks for your effort with your videos........Mike

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Mon, 04/09/2018 - 18:26
#3
Harp Tech Kinya...
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Hi Mike, yeah I leave the

Hi Mike, yeah I leave the pins in place as well.

The key to the Harpmaster Tuner--tuning past the edge--is to draw your breath "convincingly"--especially your octaves. That experience should feel like, when drinking your smoothie through a straw, you sucked up some chunks of strawberry. If you don't do this, you'll discover the assembled harmonica registering significantly different (chromatic tuner) readings. 

Your Harpsmith, Kinya

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Wed, 04/11/2018 - 04:30
#4
Goid
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Custom work

Hi Kinya,

Are you in the U.K.? I'm learning harp with David B and looking to get the custom work done.

 

Thanks 

Greg 

 

 

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Sun, 04/15/2018 - 11:20
#5
Harp Tech Kinya...
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Hello Greg, Welcome to

Hello Greg, Welcome to bluesharmonica.com 

Like David, I am based in the USA/San Francisco Bay/San Jose (Silicon Valley) areas.

I would recommend your search by going to Hohner's site: https://www.hohner.de/en/service/harmonica/hohner-affiliated-customizers

Your Harpsmith, Kinya

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Wed, 04/18/2018 - 12:29
#6
tophand
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Sipping Smoothies

Yeah I noticed that significant difference. The only way I've been able to make it work was to use your tuning and gapping charts to set a base line for each note/hole. I tried changing the reference pitch to accomodate the difference, but it seems as though they are off by a percentage per note rather than a constant across the harp. So adjusting the reference pitch doesn't work.

Were the Hohner foot operated bellows a vacuum also? It seems like they would had to have been. 

 

Thanks......Mike

 

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Thu, 04/19/2018 - 20:29
#7
Harp Tech Kinya...
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Most definitely

Most definitely Mike--bellows for Hohner's tuning tables. 

When I was in Trossingan, Germany, I was invited to Gunter Beyer's (39.5 year veteran from Hohner) private workshop and there it was, a vintage reed plate tuning table coupled to an accordian bellow.

Regarding the reference pitch,

  1. For example, 4 blow (middle C) on a Key of C diatonic harmonica--with the chromatic tuner calibrated to 442 hz; you should be reading a steady 0 (zero). No? then tune it until you have your 0 (zero)
  2. Now that you have established this reed as the official reference pitch for all C notes--do not mess with this reed anymore!
  3. next, with your 4 valve still pulled out, open your 1 valve ... hear the octave? Does the octave oscillate (warble)? If yes, the low C (blow reed 1) is out of tune. 
  4. sneak a peak at your chromatic tuner, is the low C displaying # (sharp), or b (flat)?
  5. if sharp, you will need to slow the reed vibration down by removing metal off the back end of the reed
  6. if flat, remove metal from the free end of the reed to speed it up the reed vibration
  7. again--as you are tuning reed #1--the trick is to draw convincingly and really make that octave SCREAM. Keep tuning until the oscillation stops and all you hear is a beautifully smooth octave (Reed 1 and 4) 
  8. next step is "tune past the edge", meaning once you hear a smooth perfect octave, continue to remove metal until the oscillating octave returns. Not so dissimilar from tuning a guitar, whereas you tune past the target pitch, then return to the target pitch--stretching/settling the string.
  9. last step is to remove metal from the opposite end of the reed, until the smooth octave returns

Your Harpsmith, Kinya

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