Breaking in new harps?
Do new harps need a 'breaking' in period? If so, what's the best way of doing that?
Hi Kinya
Do new harps need a 'breaking' in period?
Yes, the metallurgy term is called CREEP: time-dependent strain occuring under stress.
If so, what's the best way of doing that?
Ok we have: primary creep strain occurring at a diminishing rate.
secondary creep occurring at a minimum and almost constant rate.
tertiary creep strain occurring at an accelerating rate.
MX
Thank you MX, creepy stuff!
I did not realize you were a Zombie writer for the hit series, "The Return of the Walking Dead"
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Hi Kinya, i was wondering which of these meachanical properties would you say is being use to brake in reads with a vacuum cleaner?
MX
Mx, I was wondering what to make of your previous post. what does it mean?
i have always been dismissive of the concept of breaking in harps, so I'm interested if there is actually some physical scientific basis to it. I saw something from Rick Epping where he wrote about molecular realignmeant induced by strain but the details were sketchy.
Hello All
About 12 years ago, I started this method of reed plate vacuum table "breaking in" routine, and although I have no scientific documentation to validate it's effectiveness--customers (and myself) have reported that my custom settings and tunings tend to "lock in" better, and therefore, the harmonica maintains better playability over a extended period of playing time.
This methodology will have to be filed under empiriacle knowledge. If you have a tuning table and a small volume vacuum device--I recommend that you give it a go, then experience the benefits yourself ;o)
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
id give that a whirl Kinya. If I can find a suitable vacuum. I think my Electrolux might be too powerful.
Hello Harp Techs,
Here is a pic-shot of my reed “breaking- in” rig. Ultra small vacuum cleaner (for computer keyboard) coupled to the breathing hose of the new #ST-15m "Master/Slave reed plate" Sjoberg Tuning Table--held with removable painters "Blue" masking tape.
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After reed profiling and tuning, run the vacuum cleaner full tilt (all valves open) for about 8 to 10 minutes...
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Before removing the reed plate, verify the tuning on each reed against a chromatic tuner. Note: Don’t be surprised to find your previous tuning a tad “sharp” @ approximately 1+ to 2+ cents, and the reed gap dropping closer to the reed plate.
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TIP: With this breaking-in method, you may want to calibrate your chromatic tuner down to 441Hz, rather than our usual 442Hz, and set the initial reed gaps, approximately .002" higher.
- This reed breaking in process does a terrific job of "locking-in" both the reed profile and tuning. Try it!
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Here's an Amazon link to the vacuum cleaner shown:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006IAOQ/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_1
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Hi Kinya, does this vacuum system work on blow reeds? If so how do you do it?
thank you for shering the info.
MX
Hi MX, when blow reeds are laid flat on a vacuum table--with the rivets (and reeds) facing up--every reed will vibrate on the draw air flow.
This is a huge benefit for harmonica tuning, because there will be NO moisture (aspiration, condensation) to weigh down and detune your reeds. Mositure build up happens on the blow flow ...
Your Harpsmith, Kinya
Paints 1000 words. Thanks.
yes, to me the great value of the masterharp is for tuning blow plates, with no condensation!
Hi Buddy, good to hear from you.
The Harmonica Manufacture's rule of thumb is to play with moderate velocity for the first few hours, before jumping on the bandstand full throttle.
After I perform harpsmith work, I connect a small capacity low air volume vacuum cleaner to my Sjoberg Harp Tuner, made by John Ingam of Master Harp (john@masterharp.com), then "play" each reed plate for approximately 8 to 10 continuous minutes.
* WARNING: IT WILL BE BLOODY LOUD!
Your Harpsmith, Kinya